In a city known for older, more monumental landmarks, the ancient neon signs of Rome tend to get lost in the fray. Yet 20th century Romans embraced neon as much as anyone, and the city has the commercial archeology to prove it.
UPIM, 169 Via del Tritone
When I first visited Rome as a kid, its neon signs were one of the first things I noticed. I remember my amusement in reading projecting signs backwards when approaching them from the "wrong" side. Unlike neon signs back in the US, whose lettering was typically mounted over solid sheet metal sign faces, projecting signs in Rome were characterized by an open latticework of neon tubes attached to an almost invisible framework.
UPIM in reverse.
In addition to using half as much neon tubing, this approach required almost none of the costly metalwork involved in typical North American signs of the same period. Especially in postwar Europe, with resources scarce, this must have represented a critical savings. The same technique, I later learned, can be found elsewhere in Europe and Latin America as well.
Scene from "Boccaccio '70" (1962)
Rome has so much great old commercial signage that it once occurred to me there might be enough here for a book dedicated to the subject. As it happens, that book has already been written: Louise Fili's fantastic "Grafica Della Strada," published in 2014, is as fine an homage to the subject as one can conjure. (Fili has issued companion volumes for Paris and Barcelona.)
"Grafica della Strada" by Louise Fili.
Like most tourists in Rome, my attention on that first visit was usurped by the usual suspects - the Forum, the Vatican - some of the most photographed places on the planet. But on subsequent visits, my interest gravitated towards more ephemeral parts of the Roman cityscape. Now, 20-odd years later, the Colosseum and the Pantheon look pretty much as they have since the advent of photography. The big UPIM sign on Via del Tritone however has vanished forever. Rome's other neon signs seem similarly destined to be outlived by the ancient buildings from which they hang. When they go, these relics of the Rome of Fellini and De Sica will take with them a certain magic from the streets whose character they helped define for generations. Over in the forum, though, I doubt anyone will take much notice.
UPIM, 169 Via del Tritone
When I first visited Rome as a kid, its neon signs were one of the first things I noticed. I remember my amusement in reading projecting signs backwards when approaching them from the "wrong" side. Unlike neon signs back in the US, whose lettering was typically mounted over solid sheet metal sign faces, projecting signs in Rome were characterized by an open latticework of neon tubes attached to an almost invisible framework.
UPIM in reverse.
In addition to using half as much neon tubing, this approach required almost none of the costly metalwork involved in typical North American signs of the same period. Especially in postwar Europe, with resources scarce, this must have represented a critical savings. The same technique, I later learned, can be found elsewhere in Europe and Latin America as well.
Scene from "Boccaccio '70" (1962)
Rome has so much great old commercial signage that it once occurred to me there might be enough here for a book dedicated to the subject. As it happens, that book has already been written: Louise Fili's fantastic "Grafica Della Strada," published in 2014, is as fine an homage to the subject as one can conjure. (Fili has issued companion volumes for Paris and Barcelona.)
"Grafica della Strada" by Louise Fili.
Like most tourists in Rome, my attention on that first visit was usurped by the usual suspects - the Forum, the Vatican - some of the most photographed places on the planet. But on subsequent visits, my interest gravitated towards more ephemeral parts of the Roman cityscape. Now, 20-odd years later, the Colosseum and the Pantheon look pretty much as they have since the advent of photography. The big UPIM sign on Via del Tritone however has vanished forever. Rome's other neon signs seem similarly destined to be outlived by the ancient buildings from which they hang. When they go, these relics of the Rome of Fellini and De Sica will take with them a certain magic from the streets whose character they helped define for generations. Over in the forum, though, I doubt anyone will take much notice.
Ristorante Veneto (Closed) / Via del Viminale 15
Il Messaggero / Via del Tritone 154
Ristorante Da Giggetto / Via del Portico D'Ottavia 21a-22
Calzature Ugo Celli / Via Arenula 86
Ditta G. Spizzichino Di Spizzichino Ester / Via di Santa Maria del Pianto 18
Ristorante Alfredo alla Scofa (Il Vero Alfredo) / Piazza Augusto Imperatore 30
Fiori Romano (L'Angoletto Romano) / Via Tomacelli 20
Antichità / Largo della Fontanella di Borghese
Tabacchi Verni Emanuele / Piazzale Prenestino 20
Frutteria / 5 Via Raimondo Montecuccoli
Ristorante da Robertino / Via Panisperna 231
Barbiere / for the life of me I can't remember where this was.
Barbiere / for the life of me I can't remember where this was.
A. Guidi Abbigliamento / Via Principe Eugenio 6-8
Cinema America / Via Natale del Grande 6
Antica Trattoria Bersagliere / Via Giovanni Amendola 18
Trattoria Esperia Pizzeria / Via Firenze 16-17
Trattoria Rosetta / Via della Rosetta 8-9
Albergo Sole / Via del Biscione 76
Cinema Alcazar / Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14
Hotel L’Impero / Via del Viminale 19
Farmacia Santa Agata / Piazza Sidney Sonnino 47
Chico Er Carettiere / Via Benedetta 10
Bar Sistina / Via Sistina 127
Bar San Callisto / Piazza di S. Calisto 4
Antica Pizzicheria Ruggeri / Piazza Campo de' Fiori 1
Macelleria Fadda Giovanni / 28 Via D'Ascanio
Vittorio / Viale Trastevere 38
Trattoria Esedra / Via Principe Amedeo 3
Abbigliamento Sermoneta / Piazza del Viminale 17
L’Antica Roma Ristorante / Via dei Cappuccini
Ristorante Canova / Piazza del Popolo 16-17
F.A.M.A.R. / Piazza Unità 51
Hotel Genio / Via Giuseppe Zanardelli, 28
Autorimessa / Piazza della Trinita dei Pellegrini 28
Lana della Vecchia Merceria / Via dei Baullari 3
Al Sogno / Piazza Navona 53
San Eustachio / Piazza di S. Eustachio
Farmacia / Via Giovanni Giolitti 21
Dal Pollarolo 1936 / Via di Ripetta 4
Trattoria Giovanni, Via Filippo Turati 36
Bar della Croce / Via della Croce 80
La Tavernella / Via Ezio 5
And lastly, calling cards from some of Rome's neon shops.
(Cinema Paradiso)
And lastly, calling cards from some of Rome's neon shops.
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